Rochers Saussois to Chatel Censoir

Beautiful weather, at last summer has decided to show its face.  Early mornings are still crisp at about 9C, by the time we leave at 9-ish it is about 12C and by early afternoon the temperature has climbed into the low 20’s.  In the late afternoon as the sun slants into the boat through the windows it gets a bit too warm inside but sitting outside on the aft-deck in the lightest of breezes is just lovely.

5 kms, 3 locks, 1 hour 30 mins

We left the pontoon as Saussois to be waiting at the lock at 9.00, the time we had booked, and while the lock keeper was opening the gates the hire boat that was moored behind us last night hove into view, going like the clappers.  That meant we were at the front of the lock but the lock keeper opened the sluices very gently and all went well.  

Just below the lock, 5 boats with 46 disadvantaged kids from Paris on board.  Ian got talking to one of their teachers last night; they spend a week getting to know the outdoors and taking part in various activities such as kayaking, rock climbing, paddle boarding, cycling, hiking, camping.  Admirable.

Instructions on how to operate a lock

In the canal with the hire boat behind us and the Yonne River on the left, a couple of metres lower.  Just a wall separating the canal and the river.

He was also operating the next lock, but when we arrived he was not there (normally the lockies are waiting for you and the lock is all prepared because they go by scooter/van/car).  The impatient hire boat behind us put a chap ashore who went and closed the top gates, opened the sluices on the bottom gate and then opened the gates.  We pulled aside to let the hire boat pass us, explaining that we would wait for the lock keeper because we have heard of boaters getting into trouble for operating the locks themselves.  But, just as they pulled into the lock the lock keeper arrived.  He did not mind at all that the other chap had worked the locks, so I guess it all depends on how the lock keeper feels on the day!  Anyway, we joined them in the lock, now being behind them.  It turned out that 2 other hire boats which were moored at Saussois last night were hot on our heels but because only 2 boats can fit in the lock at one time the lock keeper was delayed by having to process them through the first lock before coming to sort us out.

A second lockie arrives to help the first one process two lots of boats through the locks.

The second lockie didn't waste any time in getting down to business

Exiting the lock the hire boat shot off into the distance but we could not keep up and they had to wait at the third lock anyway because the lock keepers were still dealing with the 2 other boats coming upstream.

By 10.20 we were tied up at the marina in Chatel Censoir.  This is a pay marina: €11 per night including water, electricity, wi-fi and showers.

I grabbed the camera and trotted off into the town.  I chose to follow a narrow track, used by mules in days gone by, up to the citadel at the top of the hill.

Approaching Chatel Censoir

An ancient mule track, more interesting than a road surely

A glimpse of the Njord through the foliage

The track gets steeper

At last, the postern gate through the old town walls.  

The citadel has a fine old church and a small chateau enclosed in fortified stone walls with four gates through the walls.

One of the other gates through the citadel walls

Inside the church, a fine spiral staircase leads up to the organ loft. The nave dates from the 15th century

Above the choir the church dates from the 11th or very early 12th century 

The crypt dates from the 9th century

11th century

At last the roses are in bloom

Then I wandered downhill into the town where I bought a baguette at the little grocery store because the bakery is closed today.

The old town walls with the church behind...

...and the last remaining tower in the fortified walls

A view across the valley 

Weeds, glorious weeds 

There are so many narrow steep alleyways ...

...and ancient homes

The chateau inside the citadel walls

The very well run marina

However, while I was away the capitain of the port came to collect his dues and told Ian that the boulangerie in this town is the best in the region and probably in the whole of France.  So I guess I will have to check it out tomorrow morning.