Thursday 16 May 2019

Joigny to Gurgy

22 kms, 6 locks, 4.25 hours

First thing this morning we made a dash to Lidl to buy tools.  A couple of years ago Ian bought some tools from Lidl at discount prices and they were stolen when his workshop was burgled last year.  He has been watching out for them to come up in their promotional specials all spring and today was the day.  He bought tools, I bought a pair of summer slax and a tank top.  Summer must be just around the corner even though it was only 4C at 7 this morning.
We left Joigny at 10.00, the two boats together for the last time.  
The skyline of Joigny dominated by the church and chateau

Elle emerging from under the bridge

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The chateau with the church behind it.  Actually it is only half a chateau.  It burned down in the 16th century and was rebuilt in the renaissance style but never finished.  The square bit on the right hand side should be at least 2 storeys higher and there should be another wing on the right, echoing the one on the left.

Another church

And yet another but this one seems to have been in the wars

Sharing the last lock
At Migennes we waved goodbye to Lynn and Shaun as they turned into the Canal de Bourgogne and we continued up the Yonne.
Bye, see you in September
Elle at the top turns into the Canal de Bourgogne

Oldtimer at Evans Marine, Migennes,waiting to be lifted out

The river has got a lot narrower

All these locks are manned and closed during the lunch break which we thought was from 12.30 to 13.30. We approached the 3rd lock at 11.45, the gates were open so we went in and were greeted in excellent English by the really rather good looking young lock keeper.  He told us he would be taking us through the next lock as well, and he would do “the shopping” on the way.  We were a bit mystified by that but all was explained when we arrived at the lock to find a notice saying the lunch hour was from 12.00 to 13.00 and it was now 12.30.  He grabbed his lunch out of the car (a hamburger and chips – I guess this was “the shopping” that he had to do) and ate it while operating the lock (again semi- automated in that the lock keeper has to walk to the gates at each end and push buttons).  We apologized profusely for interrupting his lunch hour and he shrugged it off with “but, look, the weather is so beautiful”.  Indeed, it was.  The windy conditions of the last few days had given way to a gentle breeze and the sun was out.  He said he would call ahead for the next lock but it would only be operational at 13.00.  We arrived 5 minutes early; the gates were open so we went in and tied up.  The lock keeper arrived a few minutes late, another really good looking young man :) and soon we were on our way again.  We got to the top to find 2 hire boats waiting to come down.  We are definitely in hire boat territory; we passed 5 of them today.
At 14.15 we tied up at the long serviced pontoon at Gurgy.  An overnight stay is free but electricity costs €6 for 12 hours and water is €6 for 2 hours (800 litres).  We didn’t need either.

I went for a walk around the town.  Very clean and neat but lacking the charming old buildings of the last few towns we have stopped at.  There is a church dating from the 11th century but it was locked.


Book swap

The church
In the evening the 3 little cabins alongside the pontoon opened for business.  One was selling beer and wine, another was doing snacks and some hot food, and the third was peddling cheese and homemade jams. 

I wanted some jam (actually I was hoping he would have honey) but he was also keen for us to taste his cheeses.  We tried 4 different ones and ended up buying an “affiné”, which is now gently adding a certain aroma to the fridge.  We will have to eat it tomorrow!
There was a narrowboat tied up right in front of us and the owner came over to say he had paid for the water but it would take only about 10 minutes to fill his tanks and would we like to fill ours as well.  Of course we said yes and had a very pleasant chat while the tanks filled.  I loved the name of their boat: Jeremy Fisher in Latin (Jeremius Piscatore?)
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