Friday 17 May 2019

Gurgy to Auxerre



10 kms, 5 locks, 2.5 hours
Now we know that the locks open at 9.15 (not 8.00 according to the websites) we left the mooring at Gurgy at 9.00.  Approaching the lock I was just about to call on the VHF when the lock gates came into view around a corner and we noticed a hire boat entering the lock from the opposite direction, so when they exited we cruised in and tied up.  These locks are manned so the lock keeper saw us.  And he called ahead to the next lock when we exited.  Approaching that lock was a bit interesting because there were 3 cruisers exiting the lock.  The first one was hugging the left bank, our side of the river (going upstream), obviously not concentrating on where he was going and weaving left and right.  We were about to hit the hooter when he finally drifted over to the right bank so that we had room to get through.  The driver and his side kick were totally engrossed in chart books.
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Before we left Gurgy a quick run to the Boulangerie resulted in a Gougere, a fricelle de comté and a baguette tradition.


Some of the locks with inclined sides have 2 or 3 floating pontoons

Many of the locks with straight sides have poles to put your ropes around.  Good idea but your ropes get very dirty 

At the last lock: a trainee lockie.  I got to admire the lockies yesterday and today was Ian's turn!
Each lock keeper called ahead to the next lock so it all ran smoothly and we tied up at Porte de Plaisance in Auxerre  2.5 hrs later.  We checked in at the Capitainerie and an overnight stay cost us €10.20.
Approaching Auxerre from the north

A view of the mooring from the foot bridge.  Njord is the tiny boat 3rd from third from the left including the hotel boat.
What a delightful city. Eons old.  Lots of photo ops but I have to limit the number of pics I upload to the blog. 
St Nicholas square

Spoilt for choice when it came to street scenes




How to add a large window to a 15th century old building - take out all the plaster and stones between the structural timbers and insert a large pane of glass.
I went into the Cathedral of Saint Etienne.  
I love the asymmetrical character of these old cathedrals, showing how they developed through the ages.

Wow!



13th century stained glass windows 


The seats in the choir, not so much a seat as just a place to rest your wear butt!

Yet another magnificent cathedral but what makes it stand out is the crypt.
  I paid €3.50 to see the crypt and the “tresors”  (valuable bits and pieces collected through the ages).  The crypt was worth every penny, the treasures were ho-hum. The crypt dates from the 11th century Romanesque church.  When it was demolished to build the new cathedral in the 13th century the crypt was left intact.
The floor does slope to the left

Looking towards the east, a pillar separates the central nave from the apsial chapel

The chapel in the apse with magnificent murals on the vaults...


...originally painted with silver and gold

Awesome

It is a lovely city, lots of tourists and charter boats but at this time of year they did not spoil the atmosphere.  Definitely a city to return to.

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