This morning
I went by bike back to Clamecy (about a 10 minute ride), to buy some veggies
and a baguette) and to go back to the museum seeing, yesterday, we got there
shortly before it closed at lunch time and the receptionist told us we could
come back in on the same ticket, we wouldn’t have to pay again (the entrance
fee was €4 each). Yesterday we saw only
the room on the “flottage du bois” (floating of the wood) and today I took a
look at all the other rooms and discovered there is a wealth of archaeological
sites in this area, both Gallo-Roman and Merovingian (6th and 7th
centuries).
When I got
back Ian told me he had had a long chat to the lock keeper here, who speaks
good English, and apparently this marina was stopped not because of complaints
from the neighbours but because archaeological artefacts were discovered when
it was under construction. A political
row ensued and no more digging has taken place (yet) but it is unlikely that
this project will ever be completed.
I spent a
couple of hours reading about the log rafts which were floated all the way to
Paris.
It all
started in the 1500’s when Paris had consumed all the forests in its immediate vicinity
for heating and cooking fires. They
needed to search further and further afield and one bright spark, in 1546,
suggested using the rivers to float the wood from the the Morvan forest, almost
300 kms distant (where we are now, only 200 kms as the crow flies but 300 kms
of meandering rivers).
In 1547, an
experimental “train” of logs reached Paris successfully and so the industry
that lasted almost 400 years was born.
This is how they did it.
Trees,
mostly beech, oak, hornbeam and birch, were felled in the winter, cut into logs
1.14m long, split and left to dry until November. On All Saints Day there was a timber fair at
Chateau-Chinon when the forest landowners sold their logs to local
traders. The ends of each log were then
marked with the new owners stamp
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Hammers with the owners' mark |
and the logs were thrown into the still
shallow waters of the many tributaries of the Yonne, the Beuvron (which flows
into the Yonne at Clamecy) and the Cure (which joins the Yonne at Vermenton).
At the head of each small tributary there was
a dam and in the first week of November the sluices were opened and “the little
flood” allowed a flow strong enough to carry the logs downstream to 22 ports
where they were stopped by barrages and hauled out of the water until March. Controlling this “lost wood”, as the
individual logs were called, was dangerous because they could get caught up on
rocks and roots which caused them to damn up and men with poles balanced at the
edge of the banks to keep them moving.
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Casting the logs back into the river |
In March “the
great flood” carried the lost logs to Clamecy and Vermenton where whole
families, women and children included, turned out to haul the logs from the
water and stack them in piles according to the owners’ marks.
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The river of wood arriving in Clamecy |
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Hauling the logs out of the water |
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Loading the logs onto special wheelbarrows for stacking |
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Row upon row of stacked logs |
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A family taking their lunch break |
There the stocks of wood dried out until the summer. From here to Paris the rivers are navigable
and the logs were formed into trains, 72m long, 4.5m wide and about half a
metre high.
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It took a week to build a train |
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A branch: 2 long poles on the bottom were stacked with logs, separated into sections by "couplers", strong cords which held the top and bottom poles together. |
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4 branches were tied together to form a "coupon" |
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A coupon under construction |
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7 to 9 cooupons were tied together to from a "part" |
Between Clamecy and Auxerre
the trains were in 2 sections called “parts”.
Each part was navigated by an experienced “flotteur” (floater) at the front with a long iron pole,
and his apprentice, often his son, at the back with a lighter pole.
At Auxerre 2
parts were joined together and were then navigated by the 2 flotteurs and the
apprentices walked home. The journey
from Clamecy to Paris took about 11 days.
Along the route they had to shoot the rapids at barrages and manoeuvre
through narrow bridges. This required
great skill and if it went wrong there was a high chance of drowning.
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A flotteur, look at those strong hands! |
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A part negotiating a barrage |
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A train |
At the ourskirts of Paris they handed their
trains over to Parisian flotteurs and walked home in 4 days, stopping overnight
at St Mammées, Joigny, and Auxerre; then immediately
set off with another train to Paris.
When the
trains reached their destination at the docks below Paris, the rafts were
broken up, the logs cleaned, and stacked into enormous piles called theatres,
waiting to be sold.
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Enormous "theatres" of logs |
In the early
19th century the log floating trade began to drop off with the
opening of the St Quentin canal which allowed the transport of coal by barge to Paris
from the mines in the north of France.
The last free log float took place in 1923.
Absolutely fascinating - thanks for filling in the details I/we missed in Clamecy.
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