Pont l'Eveque to Bethencourt

Monday 18th April - 30 km, 5 locks and 1 tunnel

When Ian stepped outside this morning with a squeegee to wipe the dew off the deck, he discovered that he needed an ice scraper instead - we didn’t have dew, we had thick frost.  And when he went to take the bikes off he found that a puddle on one of the covers was just a sheet of ice (about 5mm thick).  Yes, it was a bit nippy this morning!

But first, we had to go shopping for groceries.  We set off on the bikes and got to the supermarket at 8.45 to find that it only opened at 9.00. 

We thought we might have a long day today on the Canal du Nord so we were hoping for a fairly early start but it was almost 10.30 before we left.  

We had a vague idea that there was a quay where we could tie up at Bethencourt, 30 km, 5 locks and 1 tunnel away.  We were not sure how long it would take to traverse that lot, or even if the quay would be suitable for a 9m “plaisancier”.  The locks were really easy; all but one of them had the green light on as we approached so we could just enter, tie up and the gates started closing immediately.  These are manned locks, not automatique, so they saw us coming.  

Guillotine gate

All the locks were between 5.8 and 6.0m

No floating bollards

At the last one a big barge about 2 km ahead of us was already on its way down as we arrived at the lock.  Going by the previous locks we presumed that the lock keeper had seen us and would prepare the lock for us as soon as the barge exited.  It was a deep lock (6m) so we could not see what was happening but being a guillotine lock we could see the gate being lifted when the barge left.  And then – nothing.  We drifted around for 5 or 10 minutes, and then I said: Maybe I should call them, it is just polite after all.  The answer I got was fast and long-winded but we understood “securitee” and the lights turned from red to red/green immediately.  And the gist of the story is: don’t presume that the lock keeper is going to open the lock for you just because he can see you!

And unfortunately my glasses are now at the bottom of that lock – they fell off, plop, into the water!  Gone forever.  Thank goodness I brought along a spare pair but they are not the same prescription, probably about 5 years old!

The colour of the water is amazing

Chops!

A barge leaving a lock

Approaching the tunnel

Only 1 km long but not well lit

Two barges in a row and there was another just around the corner

The turn off to start of the upper Somme canal which is now closed

We passed a barge called Argo which we saw about 20 days ago (I keep a log of all the barges we pass) and they, man and wife, waved enthusiastically at us even before we waved at them  - that’s the great thing about being on the canals at this time of year –no one else is, so you get remembered!

When we arrived at the quay we were hoping to stop at, there were already two big barges there but lots of space and bollards quite ok for a little 9m pleasure boat.  Of course these are not designed for the likes of us; they are merely the gaps between the aft and forward mooring points of the big barges.  So we tied up, prepared to move if necessary.   A couple of hours later a barge appeared, heading right for us, and not just a barge but a barge plus pusher –double trouble!  We rushed out and asked if we should move but he was already tying alongside the other barges.   No, he said, he’s only there for the night, no problem.

We went for a walk: quaint little village, but absolutely no facilities, not even a rubbish bin!  Lovely surroundings, a well renowned fishing area apparently.

The quay at Bethencourt

The Somme River

Beautiful lakes

Fishing platform

The "double trouble" barge arriving for the night

 We have a good wifi signal on the iBoost from Orange, and downloaded a 500+mb file from Sygic while streaming TV.  Don’t know where the signal is coming from but who cares, as long as it arrives!