Vic-sur-Aisne to Soissons

18 kms, 2 locks

My goodness me, it was minus 1.8 degrees at 7.30 this morning.  That is cold!  But it was clear, mist was rising off the river and it was spectacularly beautiful.

Frosty

We watched the Formula 1 Grand Prix in China while the day warmed up and when we left at 10.30 it was a respectable 8 degrees.

We saw quite a few impressive chateaus but all hidden behind trees

 Very turbulent at the front of the locks

Approaching Soissons

3 hours later we tied up at thequay at Soissons which is literally just 5 mins walk from the centre of the old town and the magnificent cathedral.  Of course I had to go take a look while Ian fussed with his batteries (I think he has a new mistress).

Ian's command module.  Top icon shows solar panel state, middle one is battery status, bottom one is current power usage.

Probably not one of the most splendid cathedrals I have seen but certainly among the most interesting because it was built over a period of about 70 years just as the architectural technology was changing.  Instead of pulling down the original sections to rebuild them in the new style, the old and the “new” now live side by side.  The first section, the south transept was built in about 1170 (I could be a few years out) before flying buttresses has been invented.  It seems low and squat compared to the rest of the building.  Just some 20 to 30 years later they began building the nave, after the advent of the flying buttress, and it soars above the original transept.  Even later the north transept was added.  The contrast between the two transepts is astounding.

South transept on the left, north transept on the right

A photograph of the damage done during WW1

The nave looking toward the altar

The south transept, a lot lower than the nave

The north transept, same height as the nave

 In the north transept there is an original Rubens painting. I couldn’t take my eyes off the feet of the chap who is kneeling!

Rubens' Adoration of the Shephards

Looking back down the nave to where the Rose window and organ should be. 2 years ago in a furious winter storm the Rose window blew in, landing on the organ, resulting in serious damage to both. 

 The exterior of the south transept, remarkably different from the rest of the cathedral.

A very cold afternoon, never got above 9^o so I didn’t walk the streets (if you know what I mean!)